Centre documentaire

Waves, tides and shallow-water processes

1. Waves
1.1. What are waves?
1.2. Surface wave theory
1.3. Wave dispersion and group speed
1.4. Wave energy
1.5. Waves approaching the shore
1.6. Waves of unusual character
1.7. Measurement of waves
1.8. Summary
2. Tides
2.1. Tide-producing forces – the earth-moon system
2.2. Tide-producing forces – the earth-sun system
2.3. The dynamic theory of tides
2.4. Real tides
2.5. Summary
3. Introduction to shallow- water environments and their sediments
3.1. Sediments of shallow-water environments
3.2. Summary
4. Principles and processes of sediment transport
4.1. Factors controlling the movement of sediment
4.2. Sediment erosion, transport and deposition
4.3. The deposition of sediment
4.4. Bed forms
4.5. Summary
5. Beaches
5.1. The morphology of beaches
5.2. Sediment movement inthe beach zone
5.3. Dynamic equilibrium of sediment supply and removal
5.4. Summary
6. Estuaries
6.1. Sediment distribution in estuaries
6.2. Tidal channels of estuaries
6.3. Lagoons, tidal flats and barrier islands
6.4. Summary
7. Deltas
7.1. Delta morphology
7.2. Mixing and sediment deposition at distributary mouths
7.3. The effects of human activities on deltas
7.4. Summary
8. Shelf seas
8.1. Shelf sea processes
8.2. Sediment transport and deposition in some shelf seas
8.3. The shelf sea system from shore to shelf break
8.4. Summary
Suggested further reading
Answers and comments to questions
Acknowledgments